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sidewaysInto3rd
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Quote sidewaysInto3rd Replybullet Topic: TRAIII bushing and tuning question
    Posted: 30 March 2012 at 1:20pm
Let's start with the bushing question..

My old bushing was pounded out so I took my sliding half to my dealer and had them install a new bushing in it, bought a new spring cup and new buttons. They put in the teflon bushing for me, brought it home with the new parts. rollers and ramps were good.

The teflon bushing was so tight the sliding half wouldnt even go on the fixed half. So I took out the fixed half, went back to the dealer. He confirmed it's the correct bushing and we "worked the sliding half on the fixed half" slowly rotated on and moved it up and down till it started to move a little... He told me to go run it and see what happens.

I installed it on the sled. 2 rides later I took it apart to inspect and this is how loose the bushing is now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZMO02hiqP8

Pretty sure brand new bushing shouldn't be that lose. I'm also seeing marks on the sides of my ramps that weren't there before, leading me to believe the rollers are wearing out the ramps.

I'm wondering if I should take it back and have them install the plastic bushing and hone it to spec.

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So onto the tuning question.
Here's a bit about my setup:
07 xrs
rktek drop in kit
156x2.5 track
19/45 gears with 7t drivers
440 jets (wash looks good)
cleaned / checked raves, cleaned / checked dpm. compression 140 both sides

TRAIII setup:
415 ramps
blue/purple spring (130/320)
4.75g set screws in stock 12.1g pins (16.85 total pin weight)
stock secondary off a 04 (my team secondary is sitting on the shelf waiting for new bushings)
plastic puck taken out of the spring
clickers on 6
good 377 belt

climbing deep heavy pow I only get 8000 rpm (I'm aiming for 8500 with my rktek kit). Sled pulls pretty good at first, but starts to slow down after a little while, rpms drop to 7600 and I have to bail out otherwise I get stuck.

I have a heavier spring I might try. (something/white xxx/380)
I ran it with 13.75 pin weight, It was over revving on clicker 6 but felt like I was getting belt slip on clicker 4 probably because there was too little weight...

Here's a pic of my belt travel on the primary .. hmm looks like lots of belt wear on the sheaves. the sheaves were shiny clean before last ride...



Where do I go from here?
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Dxray
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Quote Dxray Replybullet Posted: 31 March 2012 at 11:44am
It may have been the "correct" bushing but i have seen some which have been out of spec. I work in a machine shop and been now ordering teflon coated bushings and machining them to spec for myself. Yours is way too lose, is the bushing loose in the sliding half? is the coating worn out? There should be a .002-.003" clearance from the bushing to the shaft. If it was not sliding on with little resistance, it was either a size for size fit or an interference fit which is no good. You have a vernier caliper to measure with?
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sidewaysInto3rd
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Quote sidewaysInto3rd Replybullet Posted: 31 March 2012 at 6:53pm
I have a plastic cheapo vernier caliper. I'm sure it's not accurate to .002".

Perhaps i'll go buy a decent one and measure the shaft and the bearing. (always like excuses to buy more tools)

It still has the teflon coating on .The dealer agreed that it is a little on the loose side, but when you put the spring cup on and put the two halves together there is little to no movement. It feels solid.

I took off 1.1 grams from each pin and installed new plug wires. Sled runs a lot better now. Getting 8200-8300 rpm and holds it climbing deep pow.

My team secondary is junk. I'm contemplating a team tied, or a stock rev secondary with joey's helix / spring recommendation.

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Dxray
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Quote Dxray Replybullet Posted: 02 April 2012 at 9:30pm
You can buy a decent digital vernier for 20-40$. Measure the bushing in a few different places and see if it's within the wear limit.
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Dynamo^Joe
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Quote Dynamo^Joe Replybullet Posted: 04 April 2012 at 8:42pm
My laptop is back up and running now.  What a relief.

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There was a performance bulletin about the replacement bushing being too tight.  You can rework it with mild 150~250 grit sandpaper or a small cylinder hone.  
Get it to slide nicely by hand and you should be good to go.

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That's actually not that bad. Without the primary clutch spring installed, put the spring cover on the sliding sheave, tighten it down, torque it - then place the sliding sheave on the shaft again and perform the same "wobble" procedure that you just did.

...then see what happens.

Should have both bushings attached to the sheave and then do the test.

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If the rollers are cutting into one side of the roller surfacd of the ramps, then the governor cup torque buttons and their o-rings and IF you have springs underneath the torque buttons, they need to be changed.
The governor cup is "thrusting past" the parallelism of the fit of the sliding sheave vs. Gov cup fit.  As the governor cup thrusts past its normal measurement, it allows the sliding sheave to be out of phase and the pressure levers will skew up, one side up and the levers will run along the edge of the ramp, making the material of the ramp start to erode away.
If you have new buttons/o-rings/springs in the governor cup, then you will have to take the clutch apart and now do a measurement of the "to and fro" of the spline fit.  




Edited by Dynamo^Joe - 04 April 2012 at 8:45pm
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