2007 Summit XRS

Special section dedicated to owners of the 2007 XRS Summit 800
The information contained is a compilation of research from a testing buddy who is one of the most savvy mountain rider's I have met.  Regarding how the sled runs when testing, Brad's seat-of-pant feel is beyond normal.  A great problem solver.
I have to mention Travis F here also who to me is the same status as Brad and has helped to contribute to the comments.  The info on sled setup below is focused on what Brad has written up for me where Travis focused on relaying clutching info to me "It could use a little less start angle, Joe."  Heh, anything you say Trav buddy!   :)


Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 6:04 PM

Subject: Joe's clutch kit

Hi My name is Rod, I just purchased a clutch kit from Joe.  I was chatting with him and he said you're the man to talk to.  He said you had 2007 Rev that was tweaked just right. He gave me your email to question you about it.  I hope that is OK.
I have a 2007 800 xrs 151", all stock except I put on 2006 track.  Joe's clutch kit is on its way!
I would appreciate it very much if you could help me with the setup.
Engine mods?
Limiter strap setting?
Smittys drop brackets?
Any secrets you have, the rpm is up and down all the time.
This thing trenches so bad, I almost want to sell it!!
I ride between 3000ft-8000ft
I understand if you don't want to give away too much info. as I could just imagine the time it took you to get this thing figured out just right!
Joe speaks very highly of you.
Hope you can help me!!
Thanks, Rodney

Hi Rodney;  No problem sharing info.  My XRS was dialed so awesome not an XP could touch it in Revy/Golden.  The sled is really really good and the shock package is really amazing...I wish they'd do something like that on an XP (the hillclimb edition is not as good of shocks as an XRS).  Anyway back to your sled.  You already have the best mod possible, the 2006 powdermax camoplast track, that is key to its performance.  Run it as absolutely loose as possible without ratcheting of course.



Then add Joey's clutch kit, but when inside your primary ensure you hone the arm bushings out with some emery cloth rolled up into your drill, they stick and are coated with plastic from the factory and can gum up quickly when getting warm.  Then without a spring installed, put the clutch back together and test that it slides freely, I had to remove one of my slider buttons on each post and removed the o-ring so it would slide freely, only on one side though since you need some pressure from the other side to make it work....they removed the springs that used to be in there and just use o-rings which wear out fast and when new are way too tight.  So pull them buttons apart and see what shape they are in, be careful not to drop them on the floor, hard to find as they bounce pretty far on cement. 


When adding the Dalton pin set included in Joey's kit, ensure each pin weighs the same, Dalton makes the best clutch parts, however, the little set screws can be off weight a lot.   I use a gram scale to weigh gunpowder from a hunting store, accurate to the thousandths of a gram.  Sounds anal, but the largest source of wear in the primary bushings (i'm sure you heard about all the guys on dootalk/snowest with wore bushings) is that the arms/pins are either unbalanced or one is sticky or they had their clickers on different settings and it makes it push closed at an angle and wears bushings quickly. Sticky buttons also contributes to the problem, ensure yours are all free and loaded pins are weighing the same.  Joey's recommendations are pretty close.   I was running maybe 2 g's more with my other mods. clicker 3 or 4 depending on conditions.

Then rough up the surface of primary and secondary shives with light emery cloth, I make marks on it from middle out, pretty fine cloth though, the scratches are not deep enough to catch a finger nail in, just visible.  Clean with brake/carb cleaner.  Clean clutches every 2 or 3 trips to the mtns.

If you want more belt life (I ran 2300 km's on my XRS with the stock belt and never changed it once).  Golden dealership did a quick mod on my secondary and cut one of the sheaves a bit wear they meet, I'm not sure how much, but it allowed me more adjustment to keep the belt tight (sheaves were able to be adjusted more tighter).

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Keep the stock airbox.   I taped over the holes on the outer box on the bottom along the panel, you'll have to remove box to see them, as I did not want the belt dust sucking in there.

I ran a 14:1 head, and I really recommend a head change, if you stick to higher elevations you'll be fine, i had some detonation in Sicamous when unloading at 1400 feet, but up the trail it stopped detonating and ran fine in the hills, you could do 13.5:1 would give you a bit more security, also I sometimes put some race fuel in if I new I would be unloading at lower elevations.

The head change changes everything and makes the engine power curve way way easier to clutch, if you are a few hundred rpms off it'll still pull hard, stock head you have to be dead on the flyweight for clutching.

I bought a used head on snowest for like $200 or something like that. 

I changed out my y-pipe bolted for stainless steel ones with Nordlock washers, I highly recommend this change as mine came off when hill climbing and almost toasted the engine, thankfully it happened as I was turning out and was able to be off the throttle.

I pulled the needle one clip richer for the mid range, with the head change I wanted a bit of peace of mind since they run so lean in mid range stock.  Doesn't really change performance.  Keep jets stock, they're fine, you'll only get a couple hp more leaning it out but then you'll be on the edge of a burn down, so just leave it with stock jetting and just move clip one notch down. (I wish XP's had these adjustable needles).

When pulling y-pipe ensure the exhaust gaskets meet the cylinder and y-pipe lined up properly with no shrinking of the holes, my exhaust gaskets needed to be cut out as they were restricting flow, there should be no exhaust gasket blocking the flow.  Easy to check when the head is off, just use a finger to feel for it.

I ran just a can on the stock exhaust.  In my opinion an HPS can is the best with this engine.

Also you must ensure all rave hoses are tight and all dpm hoses are tight on their fittings.  I had one on my MAG side of the engine so loose I could pull it off by hand with a light pull. Had to add some small fuel line onto the fitting and then put the stock hose over that, and it was then tight.  It was almost like they had the wrong size fitting for the hose.  Check yours, since I'm sure they are all like that, there's lots of pics on Dootalk where to look for this and how it affects your performance (maybe why your rpms are dancing around).


Rear, set rear springs either on 2 or 3 depending on your weight, suck limiter up one hole from stock (ensure you do this properly measure it before and after, as i noticed some guys changing it but they just changed the holes and didn't actually make it shorter).  Run front skid shock almost lightest setting possible, i think I had about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of threads showing, you may bottom on trail once in a while, it's okay to bottom out a bit, it means you are using all the skid travel.  You want that front shock to collapse when in the deep snow so you "plane out" like a ski boat does in the water.  If you are a heavy guy then you may need a bit more shock pressure, you will sacrifice the sleds ability to plane out of the snow.  I am 200 lbs and ran mine with these settings.

I added a smitty 2 wheel kit on the rear, no change in performance or sidehilling, i just did it for looks.

I added scratchers and removed all rear boogies, no performance change, just for looks.  I like a fully exposed rail.

Ensure chain is adjusted properly and not too tight.

Ensure track is as loose as possible (affects how the rear skid collapses if it is tight).

When on a stand and idling your track should just want to turn a bit, then you know you have very little hp loss in the rear track and also shows that your drive belt deflection is good and tight (which is key to getting the power down to the track).

Front shocks, run whatever you like, usually set springs to give you a comfy steering feel, not to light or skis won't bite, not too hard or you'll get a shoulder work out everyday you ride.  Then set clickers where you want, I tried all settings and ended up 5 clicker from the lightest for plush ride on the trails, while hitting the moguls at 80 km/hr (50mph) hahaha.  My springs were about in the middle.  Pulling limiter strap and light setting on front skid shock will load the front end with weight, so you will need to lighten your springs or steering will be really stiff.

Also adjust Toe on your skis just slightly OUT, it will make your sled track straight and no darting at all.

I can bomb down the Quartz creek trail at 100 km'h (60mph) with one hand on the bars!!  No darting with stock skis.

Other stuff I did:

Remove all underhood foam, all of it, even under pipe.  Pull the pipe and use GooGone to remove the residue, also good idea to freeze your sled to as cold as possible (do this when you have sled on the deck or outside), then the foam pulls off with the glue on the foam in one piece and no residue to clean off.

Add slp flowrite material to all hood vents (doo makes a kit for this hood), also cover front wire mesh grill with this stuff to keep powder out, it will make sled warmer though, but for me in the mtns this was okay since powder was more of an issue as it would melt on pipe and fill belly pan with slush that would freeze into a 20 lb. block of ice.

Add blue headlight bulbs from Walmart...I liked the look.

That's it, do this all, then ride the hell out of it.

Brad, aka DTH.

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From: Joe Imhoff [mailto:info@mxzx-revzone.com]
To: 'Drop The Hammer'
Subject: track equivalent

Hi Brad, what would be an equivalent camplast track as the powdermax that you ran on the 07 sled that my customers rave-on about?

This guy has a 159 and not happy with the track (camo lite). Says trenches all the time, digging a slot, augering, gets stuck.
Any recommendation on a better floatation track?

Would it be this track

Challenger Powder Max
08-Present SKI DOO TRACKS--SAME AS '06 DESIGN !!---Single Ply Technology


Hey Joe. NOPE!!!

I ran a 159 inch powder max, 9941 model and 2.31 inch paddle with no porting (google “camoplast 9941 track” and it comes up).
CAMOPLAST 159 X 2-5/16 X 16W 2.52 PITCH MTN PADDLE - 54-9941

Not listed anymore on the site you sent me. Call them, they probably still have them.
It was NOT a single ply. I don’t like single ply, lighter yes, but stiffer and takes more power to turn (counter intuitive I know) even though a bit lighter. The wider ribs make it harder to turn.

That being said, I’d have him do some forum research to see if a 2.5 paddle camo extreme would fit, it has a 16” belt width, but paddles are only 15 inch wide, so handling is awesome and it out-climbs the 2.3 inch by far and with the belt at 16 wide does not sacrifice flotation.

I’m not sure it will clear the top of the tunnel on a 2007. That would be a nice track even though it’s single ply, 2.5 is that much better than 2.3” in the hills.

Best Regards,

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Page put up Nov 25th-16

more to come about primary clutch, engine mounts...etc.