I dont have turbo clutch kits for several reasons, mostly of frustration dealing with engine power shape problems.  Aftermarket turbo airboxes are fragile and can blow apart.  Youll  put it together again and again, if it blows apart at least once. A test guy of mine had to put his XXXXXX airbox back together 4 times in one week out in the mountains last season 2020....very annoying.
The next problem I know of is the aftermarket turbo brands have too much internal pipe pressure at engine speeds from idle to around 3600. The existing pipe pressure is high enough that it pushes a dirty exhaust charge air back into the cylinder and makes the bottom end bog, too rich of dirty air and not enough clean intake air.  So then have to raise the engagement speed around 3800~4000 to overcome that problem and then guys try to alter with fuel control at low engine speeds...
The engine will run poor below 4200 rpms and be vulnerable to late-winter-season, wet heavy snow, warm air and engine power low then the owner blames the clutching for the engine not running right and the engine speed fluctuation when full throttle.
Not one turbo brand has published any dyno octane data, its all guessing.  I have looked and have seen none. (this is observation as of March 2020, I have not looked for that data after that to today)
If you run too much octane for your cylinder head design then the engine may have low peak rpms because the exhaust pipe will not get to proper operating temperature. The octane will not allow pipe heat.
The clutching is a mirror of maximum engine power.  IF your engine is making lower horsepower (the power band is at a lower rpms because of low pipe temperature) THEN you will have to follow the power with the clutch weight.  In other words you have to hunt for the engine power rpm with flyweight.  Its like playing hide-and-seek.  The horsepower is hiding because you hide it with improper fuel octane [too much] and now you have to find the new horsepower peak by re-tuning the clutch.  [BUT people blame the clutching when its the owner has changed the power shape of the engine and cant find it due to improper fuel octane]
I would not run a turbo over 5psi because of the complete intake tract material temperature issue.  When you go more than 5psi, all the material that makes up the airbox gets HOTTER, MORE HOT and the engine can start to backfire because of charge air being too hot.  If the airbox is made of aluminum, it gets hotter with more than 5psi.  An engine running at 7 to 8 psi, has an airbox temperature HOTTER than an airbox running at 4 and 5 psi.
...AND, the whole time the owner puts the burden on me [Joey] that what YOU think your turbo engine is running right/correct/competent, but YOU blame the poor performance on my clutching not working.
I deleted the turbo clutch parts off iBackshift, because I am tired of people not knowing what they have and cant tune the engine.  And when YOU the turbo owner ask the turbo builder what the problem is, then they [turbo builder] ask you about the clutching.  Then the turbo builder[sil/aer/alt/boon, etc...] blames the clutching.  The turbo company blames iBackshift.  Then the turbo owner [YOU] changes over to the turbo builder clutching, then the turbo builder clutching does not work, then then owner complains to the builder and the builder says well, it works for us.
And you are on your own....and leave my clutch parts in a path of frustration with a bad name attached to it  [Joes clutching didn work] when the reality is the turbo engine isnt calibrated and always runs with dirty charge air below 4000 rpms..
I have no clutch tuning for [aero/silb/t-boy/alter/boon..."aftermarket" 800etec] Turbos please talk to your turbo supplier for a clutch setup.
I ONLY have turbo clutching for the BRP factory 850 G4 sled.